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SURFING IN BALI
Bali has given a magical gift to the global surfing community.
That gift is surf! Like a magnet, Bali's surf has attracted
the world's best surfers to ride and discover Indonesia's
best-kept secret.
Robert Koke, an American who ran a small hotel somewhere
near the present Hard Rock Hotel at Kuta in the 1930's,
was the first person to surf in Bali. In the late 1960s
Australian surfers started arriving to surf the Kuta area
before discovering the world class waves of the Bukit Peninsula.
Surf movie producer Albie Falzon documented the discovery of
Uluwatu in his 1972 movie, "Morning of the Earth". Other movies
and other surfers followed and by the mid 1970's, a surf trip to
Bali was an annual event for many Australian surfers.
Today, Bali is the front door for hardcore surfers setting
to explore the many excellent quality waves throughout the
rest of Indonesia. Before they head off to discover the surf
of Java, Sumbawa, Lombok or the Mentawai Islands, they should
never overlook the quality and perfection of Bali's surf.
In Bali, the experienced surfer should start on the Bukit
Peninsula. During the dry season, May to October, the western
side of the peninsula creates some of the world's best waves.
Starting at the southern end is Uluwatu, a peeling lefthander
which can hold a heavy swell.
Ulu's, as it is affectionately known, has a number of
sections: Temples, The Peak, Race Track and Outside Corner.
The next wave north, Padang-Padang, is one of the best
and heaviest lefthanders in the world and needs a solid
swell to start working. Padang is for experienced surfers only!
Just across the channel from Padang is a series of long winding
lefthanders appropriately called Impossibles, which can either
be your best friend or your worst enemy. The next break is Bingin,
another lefthander, which provides some of the most intense
small wave tubes you may ever experience - watch out for
the end section as it gets very shallow.
Next is a rare wave on this side if the Bukit, Dreamland,
a right and left peak. Around the corner from Dreamland is
Balangan a fun lefthander, which used to peel along a
beautiful lagoon in a beautiful tropical setting - sadly
the area is no longer as beautiful as it is now a large
hotel development.
The southern shore of the Bukit has two waves. Nyang-Nyang,
a bowly right-hander and Green Ball a longer right are both
located at the bottom of large cliffs and require a lot
of effort to be reached.
During the wet season, November to April, the eastern coast
of the Bukit turns it on with some outstanding (right-handers).
Nusa Dua is a big wave break known to hold well over 5 meter
waves: There are three main sections: Top, Middle and End all
producing long bowling rights. North of Nusa Dua is Sri Lanka,
a bowly right, which breaks into a deep water channel. Across
the Benoa Boat Harbor is the resort area of Sanur, this area
has four main reef breaks.
Hyatt Reef, Tandjung Rights, Tandjung Lefts and Sanur Reef.
Of these four waves the best and most popular is Sanur Reef,
a world class right-hander.
Back on the west side of the island, around the Airport and Kuta
areas are a series of reef and beach breaks. Waves break off
either side of the airport runaway: Airport Rights break on
the southern side into Jimbaran Bay, Airport Lefts breaks
on the Kuta side. Both are excellent waves and worth a surf.
North of the runaway is Kuta Reef a long lefthander and the
first reef surfed in Bali.
The Kuta Beach Breaks tend to have their own character and
can get very good; the best sports are Halfway, Padma and
Double Six. This is the area of beach and surf where tourists,
inexperienced with surfing and the ocean, have their first
contact with the surf. Be warned, as this area can be
dangerous when the swells get big.
Swim between the red and yellow flags and follow the instructions
from the lifeguards. Experienced surfers should also exercise
care and show respect to the local Balinese surfers.
Good surf is not restricted to the Bukit and Kuta areas.
Following the coastline around the west and eastern sides of
the island can be worthwhile, there are still secret sports to be found.
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